Day 1, Sat
Assam Bengal Navigation arrangements commence at Dhubri, 1 ½ hrs drive from Cooch Behar, c.4 hrs drive from Bhutan border at Phuntsoling, c.5 ½ hrs drive from Siliguri/Bagdogra.
Embark on RV "Charaidew" at 1400 hrs at the river port of Dhubri. While the ship is preparing to sail, take a short trip in gaily-painted cycle rickshaws past the great Sikh temple to admire the town's statue of Queen Victoria. Sail at around 1500 hrs and cruise till nightfall.

Day 2, Sun
A day spent on the river, taking in for the first time the vastness of this empty landscape of water and sand islands. If we make good progress, there should be time to stop and walk through a riverside village.

Day 3, Mon
We cruise all morning, reaching the town of Goalpara around lunchtime. We travel out by road to see the peaceful archaeological site of Sri Surya Prahar. Here we will see boulders which have been carved into stupas, lingams and bas-reliefs by early Buddhists, Hindus and Jains.

Day 4, Tue
We drive to Manas National Park, on the border with Bhutan, and check in to the simple Bansbari Lodge. This Project Tiger reserve is now recovering well from earlier unrest - the tiger count is now estimated at over 80, and wild elephant number some 500. We take an afternoon boat ride on the Manas River, and will hope to see wild buffalo, wild elephant, several different species of deer and monkeys, as well as otters and some of the park's 380 different species of birds.

Day 5, Wed
An early morning elephant ride probably offers our best, though still slim, chance of seeing tiger, or even perhaps leopard or other rarity. Bird highlights could include the Bengal Florican or the Great Hornbill. After lunch we drive through Barpeta, famous for its great Vaishnavite monastery, to rejoin our vessel at Tarabari Ghat. There should be time for an hour or so's cruising before night falls.

Day 6, Thu
This is a day spent on the river, with a chance to enjoy the rich bird life and look out for Gangetic Dolphin. The Garo Hills, once the abode of headhunters, rise on the south bank.

Day 7, Fri
After lunch we reach Sualkuchi, disembark and visit its silk weaving workshops. We shall see the whole process of silk manufacture, from cocoon to spinning to dyeing and finally to handweaving into exquisite saris and dress lengths. We drive on to Hajo, a place sacred to Hindus, Moslems and Buddhists. We visit a Moslem shrine with extensive hilltop views over the surrounding rural landscape, as well as the simple hindu temple with its frieze of elephants and its sacred tank full of great carp, catfish and turtles. Later we return to Sualkuchi and reboard.

Day 8, Sat
We disembark and drive across the river to Guwahati for a sightseeing tour of the city. Drive up Nilachal Hill to see the holy Kamakhya temple. With its tantric rites and animal sacrifices, the more squeamish may prefer to content themselves with the exterior. Visit the poignant Commonwealth War Graves cemetery, the Museum and the bazaar area before transferring to the airport for final departure. Alternatively reboard for Assam Despatch Cruise 2.

Itinerary subject to river conditions. Elephant rides subject to availability.